The Best Dive Sites in Cuba

The best dive sites in Cuba are spread along both coasts, but the most rewarding regions sit on the sheltered south side of the island and on its offshore archipelagos. Each region has its own character: sharks in the far south, deep walls in the west, shore dives and a cenote at the Bay of Pigs, wrecks off Varadero and a long barrier reef in Camagüey. Below is a region-by-region guide, with notes on access and experience level so you can choose the base that fits your trip.

Jardines de la Reina

Jardines de la Reina, the "Gardens of the Queen", is a chain of mangrove cays and reefs about 80 kilometers (50 miles) off Cuba's south coast. Christopher Columbus named it for Queen Isabella of Spain. In 1996 Cuba made much of the area a marine reserve, and today it is one of the largest protected marine areas in the Caribbean. Commercial fishing is banned, the number of visiting divers is capped each year, and there are no hotels on the cays.

The payoff is some of the healthiest reef life in the region. Caribbean reef sharks and silky sharks are seen on most dives, goliath groupers rest under ledges, and big schools of snapper, jacks and tarpon fill the water column. In the shallow mangroves, guides sometimes introduce snorkelers to American crocodiles that have grown used to boats. Diving is by liveaboard or from a floating hotel moored inside the park, run with the Italian-founded operator Avalon, with transfers from the small port of Júcaro.

Best for: experienced divers and photographers. Book months ahead because permits are limited.

María la Gorda

María la Gorda sits on the Bay of Corrientes near the western tip of Cuba, inside the Guanahacabibes Peninsula, a national park and UNESCO biosphere reserve. The bay is sheltered from the prevailing winds and currents, so conditions are calm for much of the year. Dozens of sites lie within a short boat ride of the pier, many of them walls that start in shallow water and drop well past recreational depth.

Expect large barrel sponges, black coral, gorgonians, swim-throughs and caves, plus regular sightings of turtles, eagle rays and the occasional whale shark in season. The dive base is the hotel at María la Gorda itself, which is the only accommodation in the area. Getting there takes about five hours by road from Havana.

Best for: wall lovers of every level, divers who want two or three relaxed boat dives a day.

Bay of Pigs (Playa Larga and Playa Girón)

The Bay of Pigs, Bahía de Cochinos in Spanish, is best known for the failed 1961 invasion, but divers come for its easy shore diving. Along the eastern side of the bay, between Playa Larga and Playa Girón, a reef wall runs parallel to the coast only a short swim from the rocks. You gear up beside the road, walk in and drop over the edge, with no boat needed.

A short drive inland is the Cueva de los Peces, a flooded tectonic crack often described as about 70 meters (230 feet) deep. The top layer is clear, with fish and roots hanging into the water, and certified divers can go deeper with a guide. The nearby Zapata Swamp is a national park famous for birds and crocodiles, so this area is a good choice for mixed groups of divers and non-divers.

Best for: beginners, budget travelers and independent divers staying in casas particulares.

Isla de la Juventud and Punta Francés

Isla de la Juventud, once called the Isle of Pines, is Cuba's second largest island. On its southwest coast, the Punta Francés National Park protects a stretch of reef often called the Pirate Coast, after the buccaneers who once sheltered there. Dozens of named sites line the coast: walls with caves and tunnels, coral pinnacles, and deep drop-offs where black coral grows within reach.

The traditional dive base is the hotel at Siguanea Bay, with long boat transfers to the park. Getting to the island means a short flight or a ferry from Batabanó, so it rewards divers who can spend a week rather than a few days.

Best for: intermediate and advanced divers who want variety and quiet sites.

Varadero

Varadero is Cuba's biggest beach resort, on a long, thin peninsula east of Havana. Its north-coast reefs are not as dramatic as the south coast walls, but it is the most convenient place to dive if you are on an all-inclusive holiday. The highlight is the Cayo Piedras del Norte marine park, where several vessels and an aircraft were sunk deliberately to form an artificial reef. There are also caves and easy coral gardens for training dives.

Winter cold fronts can make the north coast choppy, so plan some flexibility between November and March.

Best for: resort divers, beginners and wreck fans.

Santa Lucía (Camagüey)

Playa Santa Lucía on the north coast of Camagüey province sits behind a long barrier reef that runs close to shore. Divers come for coral gardens, a wreck from the late 1800s near the entrance to the Bay of Nuevitas and, above all, the bull shark encounter dive at the mouth of the bay. Guides feed the sharks while divers kneel on the bottom, a practice that is popular but debated among marine scientists, so decide for yourself whether it suits you.

Best for: experienced divers looking for big animals on the north coast.

Other places to dive

• Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo: resort islands joined to the mainland by a causeway, with shallow reefs and easy boat dives.
• Cayo Largo del Sur: a resort cay in the Canarreos archipelago with turtles, reefs and very clear water.
• Guardalavaca: a beach town in Holguín with a reef close to shore and gentle conditions for beginners.
• Cienfuegos and Guajimico: south-coast reefs with coral gardens and drop-offs, close to the colonial town of Trinidad.
• Havana: dive centers west of the city run trips to reefs and small wrecks, handy at the start or end of a trip.

Whichever region you choose, read up on how the local Cuba dive centers handle bookings and gear, and check the best time to dive Cuba before setting your dates.